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Vintage styling for fine haired beauties ~ With Stevie Rosalie

Hello darlings!

So now days one of my most requested things to share is hair tips and advice. I recently put up a post asking what kind of hair questions people had and found an overwhelming number of people wanted advice on thin/fine hair.

Now thin hair is completely out of my comfort zone. I have super thick hair and SO much of it. This isn’t something I can really help yet as I’m still learning to style other people’s hair but it was such a repeat question I really wanted to be able to answer it for you all! So, I reached out to an amazing hair stylist I know has a lot of experience with styling thin/fine hair! I hope you all find Stevie’s information helpful!

Vintage styling for fine haired beauties ~ With Stevie Rosalie

Hi all!

My name is Stevie Rosalie, I’ve been a licensed cosmetologist for the past 10 years with a focus in vintage hairstyling and makeup for the past 6 years. I am thrilled to be teaming up with the incredible Missi of Curve Creation to help bring you some styling tips for fine hair. Like many of you, my hair lacks in the density and fullness that so many of my clients have. (Jealous stylist right here!) Thankfully I have found ways of creating an illusion of fuller hair than what I, and some of my clients, actually have!

When I had my first hair cutting session with my new stylist recently, she said to me as she was brushing my hair–“wow I thought your hair was going to be incredibly thick based on the photos you post of yourself”. (Yes! Goal achieved). This brings me to my first point- a good haircut is the foundation to a proper style and layer’s are a fine haired beauty’s worst enemy! I am always very specific (aka a PITA ?) about my hair cut. It is a dramatic face frame, in a horse shoe/ U shape around back with absolutely no layers. Layers immediately remove bulk and make hair appear even thinner. It also makes it much more difficult to get those shorter hairs to lay smoothly or wrap into uniform curls.

Watch her wet set mini video by clicking here!

 

Setting

My wet set essentials 

-Suavecita grooming spray 

-sectioning clips

-rat tail comb and classic comb

-bristle brush

-Suavecita sponge rollers

-Suavecita dry shampoo

-Suavecita pomade

-Suavecita hairspray

Now, the next step to basically any vintage style is a solid set. If you have the time-using a wet set immediately gives hair more body and fullness once completely dry. My preference for wet setting hair is classic pink foam rollers.

 I start with clean, shampooed but not conditioned, completely dry hair and mist each section with my Suavecita grooming spray. I make sure the end is the most wet, and roll my hair all facing downward at the back then roll the front ones at a slight angle towards my face. An important part of any set is to make sure you get the ends properly wrapped. If it’s not properly wrapped/curled you will get what’s called a “fishtail” at the end which will lead to a weak set. If you have trouble keeping your ends rolled together invest in some end papers. They are quite inexpensive and easy to use. Fold the end paper in half over the end of your section, lightly dampen and wrap as normal. I finish by wrapping my head in a silk scarf and heading to bed.

My hot set essentials 

-Suavecita grooming spray 

-sectioning clips (pink)

-pin curl clips (short silver)

-duck bill clips (long silver)

-rat tail comb and classic comb

-bristle brush

-Hot Tools curling iron 1/2″

-Suavecita dry shampoo

-Suavecita pomade

-Suavecita hairspray

Now, while I do prefer a wet set on myself if I were to do one on a client this would be a very time consuming project. For clients (especially with finer hair) I tend to stick to my 1/2″ hot tools curling iron. Yes it is small and takes some getting used to, but it will mimic the results of a wet set and give great volume. The 1/2″ will absolutely be your best bet for fine hair. I prep the hair by generously spraying Suavecita grooming spray all over and brushing it through. I then section it into 3 sections-the front at the parting to just behind the ears and the big back of the head section. For 95% of my styles the same basic setting pattern is used. All small 1/2″ sections rolled downwards and secured in place with pin curl clips until fully cooled. Sometimes I will sit in front of a cool fan or blast my hair with my blow dryer on the cool setting to help speed up the process.

Brush out/styling

Once hair is completely cooled (heat set) / dried (wet set) it is time to gently unwrap your curls, use a SMALL amount of Suavecita pomade warmed throughout your hands to smooth over your hair, then use the bristle brush to begin brushing through the tight ringlets. So many people tell me they are afraid to brush through their curls…don’t be afraid! As long as you really got those ends in and your hair is completely dry, it will be strong enough to be brushed through. Brush against your hand to help smooth and form your style. If you encounter any frizziness, just keep brushing through it. Your hair should already be visibly thicker looking. 

Dust some of the dry shampoo at the roots of your fringe area. This will help lock in your back combing. Back comb in very thin sections to get the most volume then lightly smooth over the top layers with your bristle brush. As any waves you like form, secure them in place with a duckbill clip. 

To add more fullness to the bottom/ back portion of your hair you can also split it in two sections horizontally and heavily back comb the bottom section. Spray and lay the top section over to hide the backcombing. 

Hair rats

Vintage & modern donut fillers, hair net & rat made from my own hair.

Many women of the past who desired fuller styles utilized hair rats and fillers. You can easily go to the beauty supply or order different styles of donuts and shapers in the colors closest to your hair color to create the illusion of fuller hair without as much back combing. 

You can also do what I do and save the hair you clean out of your brushes in what’s called a hair receiver to create your own rat filler. This is especially a good choice when you have a hair color that’s harder to match a pre-made filler to. When used in your styles it will be virtually undetectable. These fillers are especially helpful in the fringe area for styles like bumper bangs.

I used a large donut cut in half to fill the front section of this style. 

Extensions

A row or two of clip in extensions the same length as your hair can also assist in a fuller back portion of the style. A whole set isn’t necessary as they are just being used to help add some bulk. Just curl them with your preferred method, then clip them in to the back of your head and style your hair as you would.

Hairstyle by me utilizing 2 rows of clip in extensions. They were the same length as my clients but her hair was a bit too fine for her desired style so we integrated them in for a seamlessly fuller style!

Using these tips and tricks can help assist in creating a variety of classic styles on fine hair from page boys, to waves, to poodles and anything else your heart desires. A proper haircut, strong set, some filler and a fearlessness of backcombing and hairspray and you can style your fine hair the same as our thick haired vintage vixen friends. 

Thanks for reading! Any questions please feel free to email me or reach out on Instagram.

Xoxo

Stevie Rosalie

@StevieRosalie_

StevieRosalieMUAH@gmail.com

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